Special to the Sun
After Wirt Dunbar was graduated from Jackson Prep, his parents Mary and Tom suggested that the graduation gift be delivered over Sunday dinner at Two Sisters. Mary asked, during the meal, what advice I would give Wirt before departing for Washington and Lee. Without hesitation, I said, “Accept as many invitations to visit friends’ homes as you receive:”
No one’s family is a perfect match. Part of one’s education is seeing how other families live and integrating what works into one’s own life.
I benefited tremendously from spending time in other people’s homes while in boarding school and college. My culinary sophistication increased dining with gourmands whose epicurean standards were my destiny.
At friends’ home in the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia on Mother’s Day 2018, the conversation turned to local delicacies their son plans to enjoy after entering the University of Victoria. The discussion moved onto Canadian regional cuisine and, ultimately, Poutine, the Quebec dish which is the most iconic Canadian regional dish. Poutine is French Fries, covered with cheddar cheese curds and topped with a pasty beef gravy. One meal was more than enough for me.
My friends and I asked what variation on a theme of Poutine would constitute haute cuisine. While at symphony afterwards, I perfected a plan.
I wanted to conclude the concept and dedicate the recipe to André Lewis, the Canadian Juror at the 2018 USA International Ballet Competition, who I host. André, the executive director of the Royal Winnipeg Ballet, is a native of Gatineau, Quebec. Stuart Stevens and I participate in the Gatineauloppet Canadian National Cross-Country Ski Competition, there, every February.
Corinne and Chuck Sampson came to dinner on Memorial Day Weekend. “We nailed it.” The only shortcoming was my attempt to bake the potatoes on low heat. It dehydrated them. Cooking potatoes is easy. Resolution was simple.
Before explaining Poutine preparation, it is incumbent upon me to convey the pleasure of being a host at the International Ballet Competition: I hosted a compatible French competitor in 2014. I host the Canadian juror in 2018. The job is being best of friends with someone from another culture, for several days. It is delightful. You will do yourself a favor to volunteer as a host for the 2022 competition, now. It increases one’s insights into how other people live, as mentioned initially.
André allows that Poutine is not part of his past. It was invented in the 1950s. It was slowly integrated into Provincial culinary consciousness and, ultimately, became nationally and internationally recognized.
The Canadian Encyclopedia entry on Poutine states: “Poutine is a Canadian dish made of french fries topped with cheese curds and gravy. It first appeared in 1950s rural Québec snack bars and was widely popularized across Canada and beyond in the 1990s. Poutine may be found everywhere from fine dining menus at top restaurants to fast-food chains including McDonald’s and Burger King. It has become a symbol of Québécois and Canadian cuisine and culture....
The high-end twist that I have named “Pearl River Poutine — In honor of André Lewis”, is below.
Before delineating the delight, it should be noted that virtually every heirloom recipe in my family comes through my paternal grandmother in Canton. The recipes endure because of their imprecision: “a handful of [this]” and “[whatever] of [that].” They invite variations on a theme: redefining and reinventing as tastes and times change. The spirit is anything other than “Thou Shalt...” and “Thou Shalt Not...” There is no intention of prescribing do’s and don’ts: Please play with the recipe and personalize it.
Pearl River Poutine
Preheat oven to 425°F. In a medium bowl, toss five pounds of fingerling potatoes with 1/3 cup of olive oil, coating evenly. Spread the potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast the potatoes until tender and tasty, approximately 25-30 minutes.
Simmer 2 1/2 pounds of a mix of Cremini, Portobello and Shiitake mushrooms in 2 1/2 cups of Chardonnay, brandy or cognac if preferred, in a large skillet on the stovetop. I added three small chopped baked beets, which I thought helped. Add ground black pepper, or cayenne pepper, to taste.
While the potatoes are baking and the mushrooms are simmering, whisk one pound of butter and eight eggs yolks together, in a saucepan on the stovetop, then add the juice from three juicy large lemons. Continue whisking the Hollandaise until everything is well-integrated. I added salt, to taste, to the Hollandaise sauce during the process. (This recipe for Hollandaise Sauce is a variation on a theme of Craig Claiborne in the original [1961] edition of “The New York Times Cookbook” - Craig Claiborne being a legendary Food Editor from Sunflower, Mississippi [whose nephew Claiborne Barnwell is a Northsider - Sam Barnwell and Fred Craig were scions of the same clan]).
Place a bunch of fresh parsley, washed and chopped, onto a platter. Cover with the potatoes. Top the potatoes with dill, washed and chopped fine, to taste. Cover with the mushrooms. Top with Hollandaise.
Serves eight as a main course - proportions can be easily altered to adjust for fewer or more dinner guests.
My notes state, “The combination of parsley, chives, dill and Hollandaise sauce made the dinner.”
Pearl River Poutine is an ultimate comfort food; ideal for a Sunday supper, on a cold winter day or evening, or when blue. It reheats well in the microwave oven.
A glass of dry white wine, champagne, or beer would accompany the dish admirably.
Corinne, Chuck, and I skipped the salad course, finishing with fresh fruit tossed with Kirsch. All three of us thought that to be the perfect end to a perfect dinner.
I conclude by admitting that virtually any potato base would work. New potatoes would probably substitute better than large potatoes. If large potatoes are used, they should seemingly be used cut in this recipe.
André says that what most impresses him about Jackson is the kindness of its citizenry. André is additionally impressed with the culinary culture of Mississippi.
We, in turn, celebrate Québécois culinary culture, herein. Hopefully, quadrennially, Northsiders will celebrate multiculturalism, enjoying dancers from near and far alongside the tastes of their homelands.
Bon Appétit!
